Italy is a dream that keeps returning for the rest of your life – Anna Akhmatova
If the Italian Riviera was the perfect way to begin our Italian vacation and learn to leave behind the cares of the world, Siena and central Tuscany were the places to fully immerse into Italy. Something about Siena grabbed me immediately. 
Maybe it was the rolling hills of Tuscany that surrounded us, or the amazing local wines that awaited, but I think it was the way the people of Siena seemed to really know how to be relaxed. I found it perfectly natural and comforting to sit down in the center of Il Campo while watching hundreds of people come and go and staring up at the Palazzo Publico (public building) and the Torre del Mangia. I can imagine being there and watching the famous horse races, the Palio di Siena, as they race around the square.
Il Duomo
Siena is unique for many reasons. One is that the Siennese did not build their city for the church and the center of the city is built around the secular. This does not mean that Siena lacks in gorgeous cathedrals, however. Integral to the spirit of Siena is also il Duomo, which looks down from Siena’s highest point and, in my opinion, was the most beautiful cathedral we saw on the visit.
When you’re planning a trip to Siena, keep in mind that the city sits atop a large hill. The train station is at the base of the hill, but the city has installed a series of escalators to help travelers make their way up to the city walls. It doesn’t have the restrictive feel of a walled in city, rather the walls are a part of the charm of the city. If you have a car, the walls mark the beginning of a restricted driving area where you must be a local resident and have a special permit to drive. Don’t worry, the roads are clearly marked.
We stayed on the other side of the train station, which had its benefits and downsides. It was a 15-20 minute trip into the city on foot, but we were able to park our rental car at the hotel and had easy access onto the main roads. I recommend our hotel. It was a beautiful location and the staff was incredibly friendly. They have a small restaurant on site. Think of it as more a wine and tapas bar. They also have an incredible breakfast spread (with eggs and a pancake maker), a pool, and private parking. The hotel was the Borgo Grondaie, and they made our visit to Siena very comfortable.
Siena Nomad Recommendation
We found amazing coffee/gelato at Bar Impero. It is on the main road (Viale Vittorio Emanuele II) on the left as you are headed from the escalators toward the Camollia gate, the closest gate into the city walls. In general, it seems that the best coffee we found was in bars (vs cafes or trattorias) and this one was just a little better than the rest, and had excellent friendly service to boot.
Tuscan Hill Towns
There seems to be no end to the amazing scenery and beautiful old homes that dot the hilltops of the Tuscan countryside. The main roads will take you on a tour of quaint villages. It was a beautiful drive, but many of these towns aren’t really set up as tourist locales, and restaurants and shops can be limited. Its a good chance to practice your Italian, however, and get a feel for true day to day Italian life. We visited Montepulciano, Montalcino, Pienza, Voltera, and Cortona.
While exploring the Tuscan countryside, we were getting tired and stumbled upon Bagno Vignoni. I only wish I could say we planned this into our day because it was the perfect way to take a break for a few hours and Justin even got a little shuteye on the patio after a soak in the hot springs. The main pool was closed that day, so we went to Albergo le Terme. For €25 each we got a full day pass to the two hot springs wet pools, the Roman baths, a meditation room and the outdoor courtyard with lawn chairs, shade and sun. If you’re looking for a longer or more therapeutic experience, book ahead for a massage or other spa treatment.
Exploring Farther
If you have some extra time, take a day or two to travel to the Maremma. Its a costal area along the Tyrrhenian Sea that sits in the southern part of Tuscany and northern Lazio region. Castiglione della Pescaia is a fabulous beach com
munity that was not at all overrun with tourists, foreign or local. We felt like we had the beach to ourselves and while it wasn’t yet the height of sunbathing season, it was still hot and the water felt good.
We had a great lunch on the beach, stopped for some gelato, and then headed up the road to Girifalco, just one of the dozens of beautiful villages in the area. The people were very friendly and we found out we were there the day before the local Balestro event, in which young men from the different neighborhoods would compete in an archery contest, along with a community parade and plenty of flag waving and local pride. (Only locals are allowed to be there for festival).
