We came planning to spend 3 just days in Buenos Aires and ended up returning two more times. It’s a large sophisticated city with history and flair which allows you to immerse in Argentine culture. Three days will not be enough to experience all the city has to offer, but will definitely be enough to get a feel and leave you wanting to return. We’ve built this itinerary around a weekend visit, but excepting the Sunday market, could be adjusted for any three days.
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Day 1: Friday
We stayed in several of the neighborhoods of Buenos Aires, and found that for us, Retiro gave us the flexibility to see as much as possible by foot, but also access to the metro. Arrive as early as possible to take full advantage of your time in Buenos Aires.
Once you’re settled in, head out on foot (or metro) to visit Recoleta. The metro (or Subte) stop you want is Las Heras. From here you’ll walk several blocks to the famous Recoleta cemetery. If you want to feel particularly touristy, you can grab a Starbucks nearby at the mall or at the cultural center just beyond the cemetery before heading in. While in the cemetery you can spend as little or much time as you want wandering the 14 acre maze of historic, famous, and unknown grave markers and mausoleums. Try to imagine the lives of the people that inspired some of the amazing sculptures and craftsmanship of their family crypts. Some of the more notable graves include politicians, athletes, and military figures. Other people, less well known in life than death, have become folk heroes. One such is an Italian gravedigger, named David Alleno who worked at the cemetery for 30 years to save the money for his own plot. The legend says that he had a statue of himself commissioned and the day after it was completed he killed himself and that his ghost still walks the rows of the cemetery. Of course, the most famous resident of Recoleta Cemetery is Eva Perón, the former first lady of Argentina who was a controversial figure in life and is beloved by many. You will likely never find her tomb without at least one or two other well wishers or curious tourists visiting and hers is one of the few graves that always has fresh flowers.
After you have finished viewing Recoleta Cemetery, make your way through the park (turn left after exiting) toward the Museo National de Bellas Artes (National Museum of Fine Arts). There are so many museums to see in Buenos Aires, but this was my favorite. You will find collections of well known artists side by side with many South American artists who’s works were clearly inspired by the movements of the European salons, but who’s fame may not have traveled as far.
Head back to your hotel and take a break, get freshened up for dinner at any of the amazing restaurants in Buenos Aires. After dinner you’re going to find one of BA’s famous hidden bars. Start asking around, talk to your hotel, or take a look at this list from Class Adventure Travel for the perfect place for your evening out. We went to the flower shop/bar Floreria Atlantico where the drink menu read like an encyclopedia and they had some decent, if expensive, food available as well.
Day 2: Saturday
Today you’ll be getting out of the city for a bit to explore Tigre. Tigre is a town just north of the city that is the mouth to the Paraná Delta. It is a weekend getaway paradise where you can wander down the waterfront streets, view artists at work and shop the galleries, visit one of the many museums, or take a boat tour around the delta. While you’re there, make sure to enjoy lunch but save room for ice cream as you stroll the city streets.
To get to Tigre from BA, the easiest and cheapest way (if you don’t have a car) is to take the Mitre Train from Retiro Station, which is accessible by the blue line on the Metro. It will take about an hour on the train to get out there, but is worth the trip!
Since you’re planning ahead, you’ve already made your reservation for tonight’s dinner at Parilla Don Julio in Palermo neighborhood. You can make your reservation online for any time from 7:00pm until closing at 1:00am. If for some reason you don’t have a reservation, you can show up around 6:00pm and you will be seated as soon as a table comes available. The first 10-15 people usually get an early bird seat at 7:00, because, by Argentina standards, that’s a crazy early time to have dinner. Even the vegetarians in the group should enjoy this evening as they have some amazing vegetarian pasta options. Show up a little early for your table and enjoy complementary sparkling wine while you wait.
Day 3: Sunday
Sunday is the day we’ll see the famous sights like the obelisk, the Pink House, and the San Telmo Market. So take your time getting going in the morning, and head toward San Telmo around 11am. You can get there by taking the metro to the San Juan station and walking 4-5 blocks on Avenida San Juan (with traffic) until you get to the edge of the vendors. The permanent market is farther into the neighborhood, but the vendor stalls spill out for over a mile of walking and shopping for everything from hand crafted artisanal items, to antiques, to food and clothing. Take your time and enjoy people watching and maybe you’ll come away with a cool souvenir.
Before you leave the market all together you might want to sit down for a relaxing lunch. Once you’ve walked the length of the market, you should be coming close to Plaza de Mayo, the plaza that sits in front of the Pink House (Casa Rosada), or Executive Mansion and office of the President. The legislative buildings are also all in the same area.
After you’ve seen the Pink House and Plaza de Mayo, make your way on the diagonal street towards the Catedral Metro stop. Pass the metro and keep going until you reach Ave 9 de Julio. Here is the obelisk and famous BA made from manicured shrubbery where you can get photos and let the world know you have been here.
When you’re done, either head back to your hotel to check out, or walk up and down Ave 9 de Julio to shop at any of the upscale and trendy stores.
Other Options
Other things you might want to see in BA include the El Ataneo Grand Splendid bookstore in Recoleta, catch a tango show at Borgos Cultural Center or any number of dinner shows available, fight for a spot with the locals at El Cuartito pizza shop, or head to El Imparcial, the “oldest restaurant in Buenos Aires”. We hope you enjoy your time! Let us know what you enjoyed in your visit to this beautiful city!
If you’re planning a trip to Argentina, you should read our other Argentina posts
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